Wednesday, November 26, 2008

HAPPY THANKSGIVING - 2008



My friend Tom and I are sending our best wishes for a Happy Thanksgiving day.

(Hope she thaws out before morning, Tom!)


DAKTARI

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Venice or Bust VI - Spectacular Santorini - Oct 1, 2008

Cliffs of the Caldera
Fira -Cable Car versus Mule trail?

Waiting for the Taxi

Make way for Burros

BEAUTIFUL OIA


Spectacular Santorini

Santorini (Saint Irene in Greek) is one of the most beautiful places in the world. We drop anchor in Santorini harbor, surrounded on all sides by 1000 foot volcanic cliffs layered in red, beige and black. The white-washed village of Fira clings to the top of the cliff , its sunlit cottages overlooking our shadowed mooring.

The harbor was created when a huge eruption breached the western wall of the volcano of Santorini allowing the turquoise waters of the Aegean to fill the caldera. Another eruption 3600 years ago unleashed a catastrophic tidal wave that destroyed the Minoan civilization on Crete 90 miles to the South. (Remember the legendary Minotaur and his labyrinth? That civilization.)

We take a tender from the ship to the dock at the foot of the cliff.
"Looks like we have to take the cable car," says Rena as we approach the dock. "And look at that line!"
A long, long line of tourists from cruise ships snakes along the dock. The cable car’s single gondola holds only six passengers at a time.

"Not necessary," I respond. "The guidebook says you can take a mule or donkey to the top via a mountain path. It costs a little more but it will probably take less time and be more scenic. How about an adventure?"

The response from Margaret, John and Rena, a combination of eye-rolling and sideways glances, implies a healthy skepticism for my 'donkey adventure' proposal. All hopes are soon dashed when the ship's steward announces over the lighter's intercom that taking the donkey option will make us "smell like mule for three days". Despite my protests that we can buy a can of Fabreze and spray our clothes at the top, the final vote is: Cablecar Wimps 3 vs. Mule-piss Volunteers 1. Rats!

I am mollified somewhat by the cable car ride which is steeper and scarier than any I have taken before. I am sitting across from a woman from New Jersey who turns white and covers her eyes, moaning gently all the way up. Despite the silver anti-nausea patch behind her left ear, I am relieved when we exit the car without an emetic eruption. Wouldn’t it be ironic to escape smelling like a mule only to wind up smelling like a barf bag. (Travel tip: always pack Fabreze in your luggage along with the bugspray and suntan oil.)

A wrong turn at the top of the lift leads us away from the main tourist route. After several blocks Rena queries, "Do you know where we're going."

"Not exactly," I admit.

At just that moment a local fellow exits a house on the side-street and heads for his car.
"Excuse me," I ask. " Where can we find a taxi?"
Luckily I don't know enough Greek to ask for directions in the language of Pericles. I never (well to be truthful, hardly ever) ask directions in a language I don't understand. The answer always leaves me worse off than when I started.

Lucky for us, it’s 'Be Nice to Dumb Tourist Day'. Seeing our distress, his wife comes out of the house to help. After a brief discussion, our saviors summon a cab with their cellphone. We spend a pleasant 1/2 hour sitting in the autumn sun waiting for the taxi. The wife and small son wave bye-bye from the window as we depart. I realize, "Hey Santorini, you’re a small town just like Amesbury." I relax and feel at home.

At the cabby's recommendation we traverse the spine of the caldera to the small village of Oia. It's the only town I can think of whose name consists of three vowels – just pronounce it ee-ah. The road ends and from there, its either Shank’s mare or donkey. (N.B. Shank’s mare - an old Scottish saying meaning “to travel by foot”)
A local muleteer charges uphill on his burro scattering tourists to either side of the narrow path. Another donkey sure-footedly delivers six full suitcases to a cliff-side pensión.

At the top we stop at a taverna for Greek coffee and cheese pie. The pie is made with a local goat cheese called 'chloro' wrapped in filo dough and deep fried in olive oil. Served piping hot with Santorini's dark honey, it's 'to die for'. The photographs from the café don't really do justice to the great views. We take a card from a local bed-and-breakfast in case we ever return. (I should be so lucky!)

If ever I do come back there are still many things to do including beaches, winery tours, archeologic excavations, and a visit to the active volcano in the middle of the harbor. Shopping, by the way, is not too shabby either. This island is definitely a gem worth re-visiting.

P.S. One of the local treats are fresh almonds right off the trees. They are moist and chewy and taste like mild coconuts or Brazil nuts rather than almond flavor. It’s the first time in my life I’ve ever had them! If you ever get the chance, be sure and sample a few.
DAKTARI

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

YES WE CAN


S. Rose Bolick -'Bama Baby
(Charter Member of 'Baby Needs a Change.org')


Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Venice or bust V -Say NO to Rugs - Oct 1, 2008

MARG AT HER LOOM

ROMEO MEETS JULIETTE

THE LOCAL MOSQUE

RENA TAKES THE VEIL!
SAY NO TO RUGS

Ahmed drives us to a rug shop, probably owned by a relative. The establishment is run by a large Turkish family. Today marks the end of Ramadan, a big Muslim holiday. For kids it means no school and lots of candy and chocolates. The men of the family greet each other with kisses on both cheeks. Everyone is dressed in their Holiday best and a big family feast is in preparation in the back.

“Looks like we have to stay for the timeshare sales pitch,” I murmur to Rena.

“It doesn’t cost anything to look,” Rena whispers back.

“Famous last words,” I think to myself.

Actually it turns out to be much more fascinating than your average timeshare hard-sell.
The family business is selling Turkish carpets to tourists. In the entryway, a woman sits weaving a woolen carpet. Margaret asks if she can help and the scarf-covered young lady graciously makes room at the loom. She shows Margaret how to tie a rug knot. If Margaret ties one knot every 7 seconds, 8 hours a day for 7 days a week, in just 8 weeks she will have a respectable 3’ by 5’ carpet to sell!

Each tribe has its own colors of wool and traditional patterns for making rugs. Out back in the showroom, we are treated to hot apple tea as carpet after beautiful carpet is unfurled on the floor in front of the four of us. It’s a private showing of marvelous textile artwork in silk as well as wool.

In the front room is a big basket of what looks like oval white Styrofoam balls. Ahmed’s cousin gives one to each of us.

“Shake it next to your ear,” he says.

We dutifully shake the ovoids and hear a soft rattling noise.

“That’s the larva of the silk moth,” says our host. “ This cocoon is made of one single strand of silk over a mile in length. It was spun in just one day by the silk worm that you hear rattling around inside.”

He proceeds to open the lid of a vat of water with silkworm cocoons floating on the surface.

“Here we boil the cocoons, which loosens the fiber and allows us to unravel the cocoons.”

He uses a small whisk to gather up three dozen loose ends of silk, each with a silkworm cocoon attached. These strands are twisted together and fixed to a small spinning wheel, like the one that Ghandi used to spin the homespun cloth he made famous during his campaign to free India from the British.

“Once this single thread is spun,” says our guide, “we gather 30 threads together and spin them again to make a yarn suitable for rug making.”

I do the math. “That’s 1000 silkworms to make just one skein of rug yarn,” I think to myself. The final step is to get the lady of the house to tie 600 tiny knots in a very intricate pattern and “voila!”– one square inch of fine silk carpet.

For a thousand years, the knowledge of how to make silk thread was a trade secret of the Emperor of China. The silk road ran 4000 miles from Cathay to Venice – just to provide silk fiber and fabric to the royalty of Europe. The end product is exquisite and virtually indestructible.

After the tour and the private display of fine carpets comes the inevitable hard sell. Somehow we manage to say NO to rugs. I’m ready to buy but Rena holds firm while I give the merchant a knowing eye and my trademark apologetic shrug. We wish the merchant a Happy Eid ul-Fitr (End of the Fast.) and depart the premises.

From our private glimpse behind the silk curtain, we descend by backroad to the bazaar at Kusadasi. John and Margaret begin endless negotiations to buy a pair of leather jackets while I wander off to find stamps and a letterbox to mail some postcards. When I return, Rena has been picked up by a nice young Turkish boy named ‘Romeo’. I’m not sure if Romeo wants his new ‘Juiliette’ to buy a pocketbook or to take him to America in her steamer trunk!

After taking a photo of Rena and her Romeo, we walk to the mosque and hear the muezzin’s call to prayer. We stop for baklava, crepes and coffee at a sidewalk cafe. Well- dressed men continue to kiss their brethren while kids collect candy from all the shopowners. Rena tries on an “I dream of Jeannie” veil – suitable for the serraglio. She’s quite fetching. “Eat your heart out, Romeo,” I whisper smugly to myself.

What a great day in Turkey! We limp back to the boat with our collection of tired feet, achy backs and lame legs to the Splendour of the Seas. I’m cheered by the prospect of a Motown floorshow in the ship’s theater followed by Latin dance night in the Top Hat lounge. It’s formal night again and I get to wear my tuxedo! I hope I find a fellow dancer to partner with me. That would be heaven indeed.
Happy Eid ul-Fitr, y’all.

DAKTARI

Saturday, November 1, 2008

HAPPY HALLOWEEN - Oct 31, 2008

HAPPY HALLOWEEN FROM MONKEY SOPHIE
HAPPY HALLOWEEN FROM NURSE LINDA AND DAKTARI


Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Venice Or Bust IV- Ephesus, Turkey -September 30, 2008

MANY-BREASTED ARTEMIS
RUINS AT EPHESUS


LIBRARY AND HADRIAN'S TEMPLE

WORSHIP IN THE RUINS

VENICE OR BUST IV
We’ve arrived in Turkey!
You gotta love a country whose money is called the yittle!
YTL stands for Yeni Turkeii Lira (New Turkish Lira) but we call it the yittle for short. It's worth just about $1 U.S. which is very convenient. A yittle here – a yittle there and soon your spending some serious loot.
We change our euros to yittles and head to town.

The town is Kusidasi (first syllable rhymes with tushy, second syllable rhymes with posse). Kusidasi is a pretty port city built in the last thirty years for the express purpose of separating tourists from their yittles. Unlike Dubrovnik, there is no old city.

To find a really old city we hire a cab to drive us to Ephesus – the capital of the ancient Roman province of Asia. Our new cabbie, Ahmet, is efficient but not as much fun as Nikola from Dubrovnik. First stop is a large stone statue of Mother Mary. Turkey is a Muslim country so Ahmet must figure all American tourists are dying to see a giant statue of Jesus' Mom. I guess he can tell from Rena's body language that we are not fans.

Our next stop is at the temple of the Goddess Artemis. In the Mother Goddess competition, Artemis wins hands down over the Virgin M. She pre-dates Mary by 3000 years for one thing. Artemis was originally the Persian Goddess Cybele. Then she became Artemis. Later, after the Roman conquest, Artemis was idenitified with the Roman Goddess Diana, the huntress.
Artemis' statue is my idea of what a real mother goddess oughta look like. She has curves in the all the right places plus at least 50 breasts. Now this is something even doctors don't see everyday!

A roadside vendor is selling replica statues of Artemis and I just have to buy one. I bargain for a while and we eventually settle on the Goddess Artemis Action figure upgrade – a bigger statue for the same price as the statue ordinaire. Total price is 4 yittles – that's less than 10 yittle cents per boobie! What a steal! After negotiations are concluded, I pause to offer a silent prayer to the Goddess and ask her many-breasted blessings for all pagans everywhere. Om Shanti, y'all.

Next, Ahmet takes us to visit Artemis' hometown of Ephesus. It's remarkably well preserved – buried by an earthquake in 614 C.E. Ephesus was the biggest city in Asia at the time – over 200,000 people. They've been excavating the ruins for 110 years and have uncovered less than 10% of the city. The stadium alone held 25,000 people!

I befriend a grizzled old black-and-white tomcat in the ancient forum. He's got nicked ears and a scarred nose but I can tell by his big purr and nuzzling neck that he's more a lover than a fighter.

A few ruins go a long way. I like the physician's house. A large boa constrictor marks the doc's office entrance and a statue shows this ancient healer was a woman. She was honored with a statue because she saved Ephesus from the plague.

We pay a yittle more money and go into the peristyle house. This is an ancient condo development on the slope above the city forum. Seven very wealthy families lived here. The site has been unearthed right down to the brightly colored fresco paintings on the walls, the marble columns of the central courtyards, and the mosaics on the floors. Even the clay jars that held food in the kitchen have been preserved.

Rena and I knock off early and clamber over a broken wall to sit in the sun and rest. A tiny hummingbird sips nectar from a flowering shrub. The landscape smells of warm sage and oregano baking in the afternoon sun. I close my eyes and inhale -- warm earth, blue sky and herbal scented air. This peaceful moment at the edge of the ruins will be my treasured memory of ancient Ephesus. "Thank you again Goddess Artemis," I pray silently. "I love your hometown."
DAKTARI

Monday, October 27, 2008

Venice or Bust III - On Board Ship - Sept 29, 2008

Bob, Terry, Rena, Marg and Me

Major Atrium!!!


Elevator Near Miss

Babar of the Stateroom

OOOH - NICE ELEPHANT


Today we are sailing from Dubrovnik to Kusadasi, Turkey.
I thought I’d just write a word or two about shipboard life.

We're on the Royal Caribbean Line’s Splendour of the Seas – a 12 year old ship with about 1600 passengers and 800 crew. Our day at sea is spent sunning and snacking while the rocky coast of the Peleponese passes by.This works up a good appetite for dinner. To stave off hunger, we order chocolate and fruit crepes served to us on the fantail. Who needs lunch!

Speaking of hanging, we have a ringside seat on the fantail for the shipboard climbing wall. I am sorely tempted to try my luck but Rena sagely notes that everyone else trying his or her luck is about 12 years old. I have to act my age, again – sigh!
At night I have a fine dinner – wild mushroom fettucine alfredo with escargots for an appetizer and cherries jubilee for dessert. Our companions at dinner are Bob and Terry from Indiana. Terry works as a hospital administrator and Bob is a retiree from insurance giant AIG. They are delightful dinner company and we enjoy discussing our respective adventures during the previous day in Dubrovnik. (See Venice or Bust II.)It's always fun meeting new people on a cruise.It's formal night so I get to do two of my favorite things – 1) play dress-up in my 1947 tuxedo and 2) dance West Coast Swing to a live band in the lounge. After that we head to the floor show – a medley of musical numbers from the movies. After the show, I get Rena laughing so hard she almost pees in the glass elevator that travels up and down the ship's seven story atrium. It’s a test of the trickle down theory only this turns out to be a dry run. Better luck tomorrow night? (Answer: Depends.)

Enough of these urinary diversions!
We return to our room. Every night our room steward makes up the bed with a different animal mascot. Tonight it’s an elephant. She’s wearing MY sunglasses!! And they look better on Ms. Babar than they do on me. The nerve!!
Tomorrow will be my first time in Asia.
Well, Asia Minor really, but it still counts.
Another day, another continent – I love it.
Maybe I'll call the next blog installment ‘Turkey before Breakfast’. Catchy, no?
DAKTARI