Friday, May 23, 2008

The Duncan

f/Silly Sophie/f

THE DUNCAN

AL the BELLMAN

Mario Lanza
FLASH! Stop the presses! Enlightenment can wait.
I have to tell you about our latest trip to New Haven and our new lodging fave – The Hotel Duncan on Chapel Street.

Silly Sophie is two months and one week old. We had a fine visit with her and her parents on Saturday. Sophie’s Great Aunt Josephine (Auntie Jo) joins us for the day. About 9 PM Rena, Jo and I drive to the Hotel Duncan where we have a reservation for the night. Christopher has warned us in advance, “It’s not your average hotel, but I think you guys will like it.”

Following a contest for a parking spot with a lithe but buxom six-foot-tall African-American woman in a blond wig, skimpy tank-top and white short-shorts (Rena’s Suzuki eventually loses to the lady’s Camaro), we enter the lobby of the Duncan and register at the desk. The lobby is dark wood with a black and white harlequin floor –1940’s vintage.

“The bellboy will be here shortly to escort you to your room.”
The desk clerk dings his bell.
“Ah,” he says, “and here’s the bellboy now.”
An 85 year old gent wearing a black tie and white shirt ambles up to the desk.
“That’s bellMAN NOT bellBOY!” Al, the bellperson, admonishes the clerk.

I grab the bags as Al escorts us to the elevator.
“Don’t want the old boy to pop a hernia,” I whisper to Rena.
“This is the oldest operating passenger elevator in Connecticut,” says Al proudly.
“And this must be the oldest living elevator operator in Connecticut,” I think to myself.

Al slides back the folding metal door and hops down into the driver’s seat.
“Wait while I adjust it,” says Al.
He deftly raises the elevator about 9 inches so we don’t have to jump down after him.

“This elevator has been in the hotel for 85 years,” says Al brightly.
“And how long have you been working here?” I ask.
“Thirty two years,” answers Al.
“How’s it going so far?” I inquire.
“Not bad. Some nights are better than others.”
“I hear the elevator business has its ups and downs,” I chortle.
Al gives me the stink-eye and mutters to himself.

As we ascend slowly, I try to calculate whether thirty two years in the elevator at the Duncan Hotel is the same vertical distance as a trip to the moon and back. I conclude, it’s a definite maybe.

We exit after two floors and walk down the hall to our room. Al fiddles with the key for a while but the door is stubborn. I try. Still no luck. Then I look at the key.
“This is the wrong room,” I exclaim. Al takes a look. “We’re not even on the right floor,” he groans.

Al leads the way, as our troupe of adventurers nudges and giggles its way back to the elevator cage. We get in and ascend two more floors. As we walk down the 5th floor hallway, Al observes perspicaciously- “So there’s three. You, the Mrs. and her.” He nods toward Josephine.
“Good thing I brought an extra girl for you, Al.” I observe.
Al shakes his head – “No thanks,” he deadpans. “I love my wife more than anything.” He pauses and cogitates for a second. “Except, Mario Lanza. My wife thinks I love Mario Lanza more than I love her.”

I do a double take. How did Mario Lanza get into this?
“You mean Mario Lanza – as in The Student Prince?”
This bellman explodes. “He was robbed! They didn’t let him act. He did the soundtrack but they gave the part to another actor.” Al fumes in righteous indignation.
“Sorry I touched a sore spot.” I apologize.
“Never mind,” says Al dourly. “I’ll get over it . . . . someday.”
He opens the door to room 510.

“Name another Mario Lanza movie,” blurts Al as we enter our room.
“Um, ‘Bells of St. Mary’s’, ” I venture.
“Come on -- that was Bing Crosby,” Al sneers. “Try again.”
“I give up,” I say turning to face our bellman.
“Hah,” he harrumphs. “If I had a dollar for every time I’ve watched ‘The Great Caruso’ I’d be a wealthy man.”
Al pulls out his wallet. “Look at this.”
He opens the wallet to a well-thumbed black & white photo of Mario Lanza singing in front of a group of white-robed choirboys.
“Do you know what movie THIS is?” he demands.
“Can’t say that I do.”
“Neither can I,” says Al regretfully. “It’s been bugging the hell out of me for years. I’ll go and get you more towels.”
Al exits the room.

Room 510 is almost as quirky as the elevator. (Not as quirky as the bellman though!)
I’ve seen hotel rooms with two double beds and I’ve seen rooms in pensions in Europe with two single beds, but never before have I seen a room with a double bed and a single bed. Above each individual bed is a print of an English hunting scene. Only it’s the exact same print over both beds. “I bet there’s another room in the Duncan that has duplicate prints over its beds,” I surmise.

“Hey, look you guys,” I exclaim. “The television is a Philco. Can you believe it?”

There’s a knock on the door. It’s Al with the towels.
“I brought you towels and soap,” he explains. Al comes to a halt and looks puzzled. “And something else but I can’t remember what. But if you need anything just push the buzzer.”
That’s the last we see of Al.
I head for the bathroom while the girls switch on the Philco.
Surprisingly the picture and sound aren’t bad!

Despite its age, the Duncan bathroom is exquisitely clean. There are lots of towels and soap. Oh yeah, and plenty of plastic water glasses too.
“Good old Al,” I think to myself. “He remembered.”

As I brush my teeth for bed, I muse on a change in retirement plans. Maybe I won’t be a Walmart greeter after all. Maybe I can get Al’s job as bellMAN at the Duncan instead! Why not? He’s probably about to drop in his tracks any day now. We’ll be near to Silly Sophie, I can make extra money on tips and I’ll have a captive audience all the way to the 5th floor. I can tell tons of awful jokes to your tired, your poor, and your tempest tossed yearning to be free (of my 90-year-old elevator cage with its gracefully aging elevator operator). Yes indeedy, just think of it!
Daktari
P.S. To see the great American tenor Mario Lanza singing Ave Maria in front of choir boys go to:

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Oh Calcutta V - The Return of the Guru

Calico Jack Rackham

Calico Cloth



Victoria Memorial - The Maidan, Kolkata


He, inquiring: “Do you enjoy Kipling?”
She, blushing: “I’m sorry but I don’t believe I’ve ever actually kippled.”

We last glimpsed my Guru, P.R. Sarkar, embarking from his compound in the back of a 1952 Packard, whisked away to parts unknown (see Calcutta Day 3). As a good chela (or devotee), I have been dogging his tracks ever since. I now learn that he is back home! Only two days left of my trip. It’s bliss or bust! My quest for personal contact with Guru Shri Shri Anandamurti resumes at full intensity. But not without the requisite detours, diversions and perambulations associated with the pursuit of enlightenment.

One of these is calico – a cotton fabric, and another is Jack Rackham – a part-time pirate hanged and gibbeted in Jamaica in 1720. I found out today that calico is not named after Calcutta, Bengal, India as I had always thought. Calico (or muslin) is a type of cloth produced by traditional weavers in Calicut, Kerala, India. It is thick cotton that is less coarse than denim and very cheap. In 1700, colorfully printed calico from India was a big hit with certain lower-class ladies of London who were called “Calico Madams”.

Two of these women were Anne Bonney and Mary Read, who made their way to the West Indies and joined a group of 11 pirates led by Jack Rackham. Anne and Mary took to wearing pirate clothes and Jack took to wearing the colorful Calico cloth of the London working girls. Hence his nickname – Calico Jack Rackham. After stealing a small sloop, this cross-dressing band of buccaneers terrorized small fishing boats near Jamaica, until they were captured and imprisoned in Port Royal, Jamaica. Jack was hanged but the ladies pleaded pregnancy and escaped the noose. (I have a hunch that Jack Sparrow of the film Pirates of the Caribbean is modeled after Calico Jack Rackham but it’s only a hunch.)

Incidentally, calico cloth also was responsible for one of the major public health coups of the 18th century – i.e. cotton shorts. The nobility of England had long ago taken up the French fashion of silken “small-clothes” worn next to the skin to prevent good English woolens from irritating the hell out of their noble privates. Cheap cotton muslin from India made possible underwear everywhere for everyone. The new calico cloth was snatched up by English tailors, who fashioned affordable undergarments for the lower classes. Washable undergarments reduced the transmission of parasitic diseases, drastically improving public health and longevity 100 years before the industrial revolution. As my old high school Latin teacher, Dr. Flowers loved to say, “Semper ubi, sub ubi.”

Like a shipload of drunken pirates, this narrative has managed to drift from the East Indies to the West Indies, from the late 20th century to the early 18th and from ladies’ dresses to men’s underwear. It is now high time to return this blog to Calcutta for another glimpse of the guru.

I hear the rumor that Shri Anandamurti is back in town from a fellow devotee while dancing Kirtan on the Maidan late this afternoon. The Maidan, a 5 square km open field in downtown Calcutta, is Kolkata’s Central Park. It is home to the Victoria Memorial and many other public places – including a racecourse and a golf course. The park was originally a drill field for the British and is still owned and operated by the Indian Army. On weekends, military parades compete with political rallies and cricket matches for the public’s attention.

From the Maidan, I hop into a cab and prepare to rush back to the Guru’s bungalow. Unfortunately, rushing and Kolkata are not compatible at this time in the afternoon. The cabbie and I are stuck in traffic for hours. By sunset we are hopelessly enmeshed with hoards of diesel farting auto-rickshaws. My driver, Rasik, and I have exchanged our life stories. He is a retired military officer who served in India’s tribal areas in the Northwest Territories. We decide to knock off and await brighter vehicular prospects after dinner. I am escorted by Rasik’s cab to the Hoogli Hamburger Haven. (Unfortunately, I have neglected to inform Rasik that not all Americans are carnivores.) The Haven is on the riverbank with a beautiful view. The burgers are only so/so. Rasik insists on paying for my repast. I can’t believe it. By 8 P.M. he deposits me at the P.R. Sarkar compound where I spend the night. Fare - $8 with tip. The experience – priceless!

Oh, Calcutta, what a wonder you are! Taking a break during a cab ride to eat imitation American hamburgers in a vegetarian country while the sun sets behind the burning ghats on a tributary of the sacred Ganges is a very weird experience. “Holy smokes!” I haven't achieved Nirvana yet, but I’m definitely not in Kansas anymore.